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Valve Adjustment -- HowTo

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  • Valve Adjustment -- HowTo

    Topic originally created by JeffLit on August 9, 2005 3:37 PM and viewed 2222 times in the old forum.

  • #2
    Originally posted by JeffLit on August 9, 2005 3:37 PM
    Gary Kuntz was kind enough to provide a scan of a good technical article on how to adjust valves in our cars and I've made it available via the website at www.365gtc4.com/uploadedfiles/valveadjustment.pdf.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Bryan on August 14, 2005 11:54 AM
      I think that Paul Auldridge is the owner posting the question in the article that Gary scanned. From online FCA Tech Forum http://www.ferrariclubofamerica.org/...&threadid=1446

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      • #4
        Originally posted by JeffLit on August 29, 2005 3:09 PM
        Indeed, Phil Auldridge is the author of a great, detailed how-to on C4 valve adjustment that acts as a fine complement to Bill Badursky's article from the FCA News Bulletin mentioned above. Just click the link above to read the text and see the pictures. Now you have no excuse for not doing your own valve adjustment (other than the effort required to R&R the factory air cleaners). I think Phil is smarter than the rest of us -- check out those K&Ns.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Mike Meehan on August 30, 2005 10:38 PM
          Thanks to Phil for the great post about valve adjustment. Wondering about those air filters.Did you notice any difference in performance , sound , etc ,and did the carbs require a rejet after you put those on. Regards Mike

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Bryan on August 31, 2005 11:35 AM
            Phil: many thanks for writing this and doing it in a clear fashion I have a couple questions. 1. You mentioned that a remote starter might be easier than the wrench and 36mm socket. If you use a remote starter, then the fuel pumps need to be taken out of service (pull a fuse), along with the ignition system (which you already stated); otherwise, won't there be gas flowing out over the engine. That said, I would think that a remote starter would not allow you the minute control that you likely need to land the cam at the top of the lobe for each cylnder. 2. Do you need the flow and pressure of an air gun or would the canisters of compressed gas prove sufficient? 3. You state that you ground down the crescent shaped tool and that there is a critical thickness to get the tool to work correctly. Could you measure the thickness of yours for the record? Perhaps I mis-understand what you actually ground down and what is critical. 4. If you had to replace any shims, did you get them from Rutlands?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by pauldridge on September 23, 2005 1:24 PM
              answers to Bryan's questions... Re: remote starter and fuel supply issues.... Gulp... right you are. My comments about using the remote starter were just theoretical, since I found the right length socket setup on the damper pulley worked just fine 2. Removing the cam shims from their buckets: I actually had great luck on most of the shims by just using a magnetic pickup tool and pulling the shim out that way. When this didn't work, a quick blast of air did the trick. Seems like one of those little canisters of compressed air, like for cleaning the inside of your computer, could work well too. 3. Modification of the crescent-shaped hold-down tool: The thickness, or height of the tool, as it comes from Rutlands, seems to be just right.. thin enough to slip under the camshaft, and thick enough to keep the shim bucket compressed sufficiently. It is just width of the tool, originally, which prevents it being slipped into place, as there is not a lot of working room between each valve on the C4... I basically just kept grinding a bit off the width of my "tool" until it would slip into place. This little piece of brass is the most delicate to work with. By the time I had finished the job, the sharp edge necessary to catch just the edge of the shim bucket, had worn a bit, and required several trials to get it to hold the bucket down in place. I suspect that next time I tackle this project, I'll need to fabricate a new piece from brass. 4. Replacement shims all came from Rutlands. They are great guys. For some reason, the original shipment included a couple of used shims obviously from another model, perhaps a V8. When I called them and pointed out the mistake, then had the correct replacements sent out via next day, at no expense to me. 5. Concerning replacement of the stock aircleaners with individual units. I have noticed no discernable difference in engine operation, or need for re-jetting. Can't imagine that there is any measurable difference in air flow, the filters on the individual units look very similar to the big stock filters.

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