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  • Starting problem

    Topic originally created by sydstoldt on September 20, 2005 3:17 AM and viewed 1860 times in the old forum.

  • #2
    Originally posted by sydstoldt on September 20, 2005 3:17 AM
    Here's the sequence. Key in ignition, start fuel pumps, o.k., very strong run. Turn key further to engage starter motor- often, just, click; you have to turn the key counter-clockwise and then clockwise to get another, click; eventually, the starter will engage. This can occur when the car is hot or cold. Sometimes, the turnover will occur the 1st time, often not until after several tries. The starter motor sounds strong, when it finally engages. The battery and the ignition key switch are new. Any thoughts? Thanks for your input. Syd

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Michael Bayer on September 20, 2005 3:48 AM
      Assuming you have checked the main (and much larger) 12 volt feed to the starter motor connection bolt, it sounds like it something on the low amperage side of your starter: the selonoid, or associated wiring, to and from, which is a different circuit to the key switch. Michael Bayer #14947

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Mike Meehan on September 20, 2005 6:55 AM
        Syd, does indeed sound like solenoid is not transfering high amps to starter motor . New solenoid is probably in order. Just a thought ,and others who have had these apart please respond, but many times I have taken solenoids apart and either cleaned /sanded the contacts. On some there is a copper ring or washer that completes the connection and if you just flip it fresh side up it is as good as new .Dont know if any of this applies on these units. BTW on the old c4 list it was mentioned that these starters can be removed without taking the header off, a thin wrench and creative turning does the trick . Regards Mike

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        • #5
          Originally posted by JBishop on September 20, 2005 2:57 PM
          Syd It could be solenoid or I had the same problem in a 69 Big Block Mustang. I finally replaced the main cable going to the starter and the problem disappeared. The old cable looked OK but when I peeled off the insulation of the old cable I found that the copper wire was all corroded. The starter function is VERY current sensitive. If you don't quiet have enough amps, the starter will not turn. A few amps more and you have ignition. Hence with a corroded cable you may just be on the limit for current delivery to the starter. An easy thing to check, and an easy and cheap fix. John #16249

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Aaron on September 21, 2005 6:19 AM
            Syd, A quick note - Had this exact problem – In my case it was the contact “bar” in the solenoid and the solutions was pretty much what Mike indicated. Pull the starter, remove the plastic contact end of the solenoid, clean up the contact surfaces, and the problem will likely go away. Having said that, there are a number of other possibilities which include a bad or poor circuit from the battery to the starter or a poor connection between the solenoid and the starter windings or a marginal connection in the brush circuit… but because you indicated that once the starter kicks in, it ran well and at full strength, I think you are looking at the solenoid. One way to check this theory. With the starter on the bench put an ohm meter across the larger solenoid contacts – it should read an “open circuit”. Using a battery charger, negative to starter chassis, energize the starter by touching the positive side of the charger to the small terminal on the solenoid. The solenoid should kick on and the resistance across the larger terminals should go to zero. If the resistance doesn’t consistently go to zero, it is indeed your solenoid – Also, as Mike mentioned - There are many posts about the 17 mm box wrench mod for the top starter nut and starter removal. If you can’t find one, let me know Aaron

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Bryan on September 21, 2005 7:13 AM
              http://www.365gtc4.com/forum/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=10

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              • #8
                Originally posted by sydstoldt on September 22, 2005 6:38 AM
                Thanks to all. I'll keep you posted. Syd

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by pauldridge on September 23, 2005 11:48 AM
                  Sounds familiar.... just went through the same routine with my car. I too suspected the solenoid, and removed the starter, disassembled the solenoid, and cleaned it up. after going to all the trouble of removing that monster, I decided to take the whole unit down to a local starter repair shop, thinking that perhaps the motor armature had a bad spot, or brushes hanging, etc. After getting the repaired starter back, put it on the car... damn.... now it wouldn't catch at all, just the tell-tale click. My original starter now resides safely in my spare parts bin, having been replaced by an extremely fast and always reliable DENKO (Japanese) geared unit, that I purchased from a small company that specializes in retrofitting modern day starters on Ferraris and British cars. I believe the cost was $395.... I know, not original, but when you're 200 miles from home, its a nice feeling knowing the old baby will turn over. The website is: www.BritishStarters.com, and he claims to give a lifetime warranty! At any rate, best of luck with the project (Oh, by the way, I can confirm that, although it first seems impossible, the starter CAN be removed without the headers, as boasted by others.

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                  • ldguilbert
                    ldguilbert commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Hi, do you have a procedure to remove the starter without removing the headers or pulling the engine out? Thanks. [email protected]
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