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  • Help - Trim stipts are being difficult

    Topic originally created by Aaron on October 9, 2005 3:29 PM and viewed 2085 times in the old forum.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Aaron on October 9, 2005 3:29 PM
    Team, Regarding the “paint project” I need some help – There are two Stainless trim strips on each side of the car, both are on the outside and at the bottom of the side windows. There are about 1 inch wide and span the bottom length of the window – Does anyone know how to get these off the car –(the door and the top of the rear fender) without damaging them. I have Spent about an hour looking at them and have not reached a solution. They are the last 4 pieces of trim to come off the car. It looks like they clip on to a vertical lip. Otherwise things are going smoothly. Most of the surfaces are to metal. Also – the cracking seems to be more prevalent over the parts of the car that were leaded. The more I take apart, the more I’m impressed with the quality – it has been fun up till these last silly stainless trim strips. One word of caution – the DA sander with 80 grit eats lead – there are a few spots where I will need to apply some “glazing putty”. Thanks, Aaron

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    • #3
      Originally posted by JeffLit on October 9, 2005 4:06 PM
      As you say, they clip on to a vertical lip. They just come straight up to remove. Given that you don't have to worry about the paint I should think that you'll be fine prying them up carefully.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Aaron on October 11, 2005 2:54 AM
        Thanks Jeff, I will give it a try Aaron

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        • #5
          Originally posted by dbone on October 12, 2005 12:16 PM
          Aaron, Are you taking pictures of this project. It would be helpful to see the more common areas of "stress cracks" on a bare metal car. Dave

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Aaron on October 13, 2005 2:29 AM
            Dave, Yes – I’m taking pictures, I will take some more this weekend, and I should probably get some out to the group. As a note from a previous post. The trim at the top of the door panel, at the bottom of the window opening, this is a substantial piece of trim - I was quite worried about it, so working from the inside of the door where nothing shows and following Jeff's advice, I use a small block of maple (left over from the kitchen floor project) and with a few significant taps upward, it cam right off cleanly. For the piece at the base of the quarter window, after removing the glass, I basically used the quarter panel rain tray for leverage to pry upward – good results, no harm to trim. Only other area that was a pain was the driver side Pinnin emblems. Needed to take out the heater core and the “air direction assembly”, of course to do that, I had to remove the brake master cylinder and power assist unit and all the mess that needs to be done there. It has been a lot of little stuff, but at this point I'm very pleased with they way the priliminary tasks are going. Just ordered window channel and new leather (essentially pre-made seat covers) from re-originals -Really did not know how else to address the seat problem. I will let you know what happens. They seem like nice people, Paint shop next week if things go well - (they had better go well, my wife has expressed some dis-satisfaction with the amount of time spent in the shop) Aaron

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Ian Levy on October 13, 2005 3:45 AM
              Hi Aaron I am pleased you are making good progress. I am interested in the window channel that you have bought from Re Originals. How close a match is it to the existing. I have bought several different types here in the UK( even from Ferrari UK) & it is always slightly different to the original. It is slightly thicker or thinner or deeper or shallower or wider or narrower but never exactly the same. It is very important that you get it exact as it does affect how the windows work Good luck with the paint job Regards Ian L UK

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Aaron on October 13, 2005 7:01 AM
                Ian, I haven’t seen it yet – but I will let you know. It is supposed to be the “exact same as original, made in Italy” ???? Also, I am re-doing all 8 pieces (including the rear windows) so for my car It will match. The stuff that was in there is old and falling apart, so it is not clear to me what the original actually looked like when new – Aaron

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Ian Levy on November 29, 2005 5:24 PM
                  Hello Aaron I know I have sent you this info privately but I want to share it with all. When replacing any trims especially on new paint my paint shop use Waxoyl or an equivalent sprayed inside the trim being replaced.Waxoyl is an oily rust preventive wax that does not set hard. I sprayed it everywhere after the paint job was done especially into the cavities. The guys in the paint shop swear by its use & said to use it inside all the stainless trim pieces when refitting anything. If you scraped / scratched the paint anywhere when replacing the trims or anything else, the Waxoyl would provide rust protection. It really is great stuff.An aerosol of the clear stuff is all you need. I sprayed inside the headlight buckets, behind the lights,on the back of the rear lights.on the silvering of the headlights etc etc Check out Waxoyl http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/waxoyl.asp Seems costly but it is well worth it cost equivalent of $10 in the UK. Regards Ian

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