Window Felt

[Tom Welsh]

My window felt needs replacing. I don't want to get into it without some idea of the correct steps to complete the job.
I'm not looking forward to dealing with the lift drum wire afer doing that twice, but I will if necessary.
There isn't any info on the net for a 365 GTC/4. The part looks like a U shaped metal channel with felt surround.
I can't determine if the channel is riveted or not, although the 250 and others do have the fasteners.
Replacing the door rubber was easy, then after looking at the felt, I said - do I really want to do this?

04/31/17 I was looking for some input. Looks like no one tackled this repair.. I can see why..

[Tom Welsh]

[Tom Welsh]

There's a number of rivets to remove, the window must be disconnected and moved back. Tried to rake the vent window out and can't because of non-accessible rivet in the lower front. It isn't necessary at this point I believe. Still going forward, Flock arrives tomorrow. Ordered 10 ft. One door requires 8 ft. and then I have 2 ft tor the top of the passenger door. Made a mistake by trying to remove a screw in the vent post colar, it broke and was not needed to continue with the breakdown.
TW

[jefflit]

Sounds like a tough job. Keep us up to date on how it goes.

[Tom Welsh]

Jeff, I just finished an hour ago. Got sidetracked when my desktop wouldn't update. Spent 4 days on it and used support when I ran out of ideas. They were good up until the last guy who told me I had to wait for a new release of ASUS bios FW. It's a mew MB I installed in Nov. He left a temp MS troubleshooting patch on the system that automatically reboots the OS and then sighed off, so I couldn't shut it down without using the off button.. long story short is I went to a backup clone. formatted the bad drive and recovered programs and data. Finally got back to the Ferrari a couple days ago. I'll fill in my moves and mistakes after a bit.

[Tom Welsh]

There were different ideas on how this should come apart.
1. Lift everything out as a unit as in the earlier cars.
2. Remove the vent window and latch mechanism

I started by taking the vent window and latch out.
There's several screws under the weather strip rail that go into the vent frame. I popped 7 rail (3/32) rivets and removed 4 of the window screws.

Error #1 – It’s not necessary to remove the vent window or latch. Also, the front vent frame appears to be riveted in a way that’s inaccessible.

Looking at the two vertical door window channels, only the front is removable.
The back channel from what I can tell is welded to the door frame and is flexible at the bottom by removing the lower bolt.

Step 1

Mark the location of any part that is adjustable.
Run the window down. Disconnect the battery,
Pull the top window felt down and out. Pay attention to how the two ends meet the vertical felt. There were no 45 degree cuts.
The verticals go all the way up and the ends of the horizontal felt butt either side.
Ease the vent rubber off the vertical channel.
The front channel comes out by removing two (5/32) rivets (behind the felt) at the very top that are attached to a short bracket on the door.
There isn’t very much clearance between the vent window and channel as it closes, note the distance.
I had vent window and channel contact after riveting and had to drift the channel with a block of wood.
Next remove two rivets that attach the rail to the lower vent frame (under the vent rubber).
Remove the BOLT at the bottom on the front channel. Remove the NUT on the lower back channel.

Step 2

(You might want to see if the channel comes out before Remove the vent crank assembly (3 bolts).)
Do not try to remove the Philip setscrew in the brass collar. Not necessary and it will break.
The assembly will drop down and come out through the speaker hole. This will give additional clearance when twisting the channel out.
I had it out before trying to remove the channel so I’m not sure it’s necessary.
Nothing is holding the front channel at this point, push the window to the left slightly flexing the back channel, at the same time position the front channel on an angle so that the upper front section of the window is the only portion in contact with the channel. It takes some effort, but you should be able to pop the window out toward the door skin.
That done, carefully position the window against the door skin and below the rubber stop pads, w/wire cable is still attached to the window.
Carefully twist and pull the channel out without damaging the door sill rubber.
Try to remember how it came out and note or measure the felt positioned at the top and how it extends beyond the channel.

Error #2 – I thought it ended at the tip of the channel. After reinstalling, the felt was short by millimeters and I had no choice but to rip it out and start over. (my error in photo)
You might want to take a snapshot before you remove the felt.

Pull the rear channel felt out and note how it fits at the top.

Step 3

All the felt replacement stories relate to window drag and binding after a repair so I thought this step was important.
Clean the sticky adhesive from all the channels with a screwdriver so the new material will have ample space. This includes the section where the vent window rubber is attached.
Make a clean cut with dikes and match the lengths of the 3 pieces.
The original material gap measured at 5mm. I came up with a 5mm piece of steel and large paint mixing stick with the same dimensions.
Use a putty knife to guide the felt sides into the channel so they won’t roll up. I applied 3M black weather stripping adhesive. Not much is needed.
Use two wood blocks to support the channel and hammer the felt squarely in the channel. I also torked it back and forth a little for additional clearance.
Eyeball to see if it lines up straight and you want the bottom square. The rear channel felt was inserted the same way and squared with both the steel and paddle.

Step 4

Slide the front channel back in the same way it came out and keep it on an angle to insert the window. Reinstall the window by popping it back in.
Connect the channel with 5/32 rivets to the vent frame. NOTE: Check the vent window clearance when doing this.
The rivet gun will not fit in the channel. I found a small nut to use as a spacer and take up the slack.
Be careful to not overdo it, there can be problems with the tool grabbing the rivet.
If the shaft doesn’t break, you’ll have to use a Dremmel tool to cut the rivet.
Possibly the vent needs to be closed when riveting the top. Eventually I had to drift the top of the channel slightly for vent window clearance.
Install the window top felt and recheck the gaps with the 5mm insertion tool,
Reinstall the vent crank assy. I glued the 3 spacer washers together for easy installation. Get the window crank out.
Crank the window to locate any rough spots. Align and tighten the lower channel bolts then crank it a few more times.

At this point I attached the battery cable and had to laugh, hitting the window switch- IS IT GOING TO BIND?.. It didn’t move.
I quickly checked the motor wiring and realized the dummy didn’t turn the key on. It worked like new.

I just ordered material to do the passenger side. They say the second time goes a lot easier, we’ll see.

T. Rutlands indicated they supply all other suppliers with the correct material. #0086 Door Glass U” Channel. It comes in 1ft. lengths at $4 ft.

[jefflit]

Nice write-up. Thanks. I probably should do mine but will wait for more threads to come off first.

[365gtc4]

Tom, to concur with Jeff, a great step by step. Thank you.

[Tom Welsh]

Just finished the passenger side last night. 2 hrs. to disassemble and 4 to finish up.
Moved the window next to the door skin.
This time I didn’t remove the vent window crank assy, just removed the two bolts that fastened it to the door.
The bottom of the vent frame has to be flexed (pried) up to allow clearance for the bracket in the channel center.
It’s a bit of a struggle getting the channel out and back in, with or without the vent crank assembly installed.
The paint on the channel’s edge will probably get scratched and need touch up.
Remove the speaker so it doesn’t get damaged.
The front felt on this side (passenger) was angle cut and I duplicated it with the replacement. The top piece was straight and comes down to meet it.
When installing the top felt, I started at the front and worked to the back. Due to the arc, it requires the felt to be fully seated as you work toward the back.
The sticky rubber on the bottom of the felt adheres pretty well and not much adhesive is required except at the ends. They may need to be clamped to hold in place.
The length of the wooden paint stick (used with 5 gal. cans) was extremely helpful in working in the felt in next to the back latch.

Both window wire clamps were loose and one didn’t clamp at all. I averted a problem here and did some overall maintenance on the door.

The same rivet on the vent bottom didn’t break off again. It’s difficult to cut with a dremmel tool in the narrow vent space.
The top of the window didn’t line up with the felt as it was raised. I adjusted the channel bottom and it came into alignment when I bolted the three vent washers in place.

Before doing this job, I replaced the T shaped door rubber and chasse rubber seal. A relatively easy job.
The chasse rubber starts at the upper back and continues around to that point again where it ends with a wrap over and behind the starting point. I read that there were different ways to do this and followed my original setup.

[Jippiejake]

Just finished the passenger side last night. 2 hrs. to disassemble and 4 to finish up.
Moved the window next to the door skin.
This time I didn’t remove the vent window crank assy, just removed the two bolts that fastened it to the door.
The bottom of the vent frame has to be flexed (pried) up to allow clearance for the bracket in the channel center.
It’s a bit of a struggle getting the channel out and back in, with or without the vent crank assembly installed.
The paint on the channel’s edge will probably get scratched and need touch up.
Remove the speaker so it doesn’t get damaged.
The front felt on this side (passenger) was angle cut and I duplicated it with the replacement. The top piece was straight and comes down to meet it.
When installing the top felt, I started at the front and worked to the back. Due to the arc, it requires the felt to be fully seated as you work toward the back.
The sticky rubber on the bottom of the felt adheres pretty well and not much adhesive is required except at the ends. They may need to be clamped to hold in place.
The length of the wooden paint stick (used with 5 gal. cans) was extremely helpful in working in the felt in next to the back latch.

Both window wire clamps were loose and one didn’t clamp at all. I averted a problem here and did some overall maintenance on the door.

The same rivet on the vent bottom didn’t break off again. It’s difficult to cut with a dremmel tool in the narrow vent space.
The top of the window didn’t line up with the felt as it was raised. I adjusted the channel bottom and it came into alignment when I bolted the three vent washers in place.

Before doing this job, I replaced the T shaped door rubber and chasse rubber seal. A relatively easy job.
The chasse rubber starts at the upper back and continues around to that point again where it ends with a wrap over and behind the starting point. I read that there were different ways to do this and followed my original setup.

Were do you buy the felt?

[Tom Welsh]

Everything has changed since 2017. None of my links work now. T Rutlands is selling on EBay. I did a search for Ferrari 365 window felt and found the side channels. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ferrari-365...UAAOSwv0tVbdNb
Fuzzy strips are also there. Use plastic spoons to remove the chrome strips.
I fought that wire spool on a different episode. Can’t remember if I lost tension on this job.

[dkblueuk]

Hello Tom,
A bit late, but www.cicognaniguarnizioni.it has a whole set of rubber parts for the C4 and is good to deal with.
Neil.