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Valve Adjustment

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  • Valve Adjustment

    Time for adjusting the valves has come. After reading the Valve Adjustment Instructions by Phil and Bill, I'm getting ready. Does anyone have the two piece tool needed I might borrow?
    Thanks, Bruce

  • #2
    Hello Bruce,
    You can buy the tools from Superformance in the UK, part # A59560 for £76.
    After you have struggled and spent all the time removing the air boxes and carbs, this won't seem too expensive !
    Neil.

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    • #3
      Thank you, Neil.
      I found the Hill Engineering part AS9560; it looks different than the brass VAT 308 reproduction that Phil had modified and used. Have you used this tool? Since it is hardened steel, could its use scratch or damage the cam lobe?
      Bruce

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      • #4
        Hello Bruce,
        Yes, I used the tools to change two inlet shims on my car - no damage, it works fine.
        Neil.

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        • #5
          Neil,
          If you would, please explain this tool's use. Just looking at the picture, does one lever down on the edge of the "cup" in which the shim in held, from the shaft of the cam thus opening the valve and allowing the "hook" to pluck out the shim? And did you find that you had to resynchronize the carbs after reinstalling them?
          Thank you,
          Bruce

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          • #6
            Hello Bruce,
            From memory, you take all the spark plugs out, and put something loose in the holes so you can't drop anything in there.
            Then turn the engine over and measure all the shim to cam clearances, on the base circle of the cam.
            With the ones you need to change, you turn the engine over until the cam is about to open the valve on that cylinder.
            This makes sure the piston is nowhere near the valve.
            You then push the shim down with the lever, and then slide the other tool between the shaft of the cam and the side of the tappet bucket.
            You can then change the shim, and reverse the process.
            The tappet bucket has two slots to make it possible to remove the shim, so make sure one is not going to be under the holding tool ( the hook) before you lever down the bucket.
            I only took off the cam covers, and left the chain covers in place.
            You will find you can cut a very thin aluminium shim to enable the cam cover to be replaced without disturbing the "o" ring, out of a beer can.
            Yes, you will need to resynchronize the carbs.
            I used a Synchrometer with an adapter to fit into the air horns.
            You only need to re-balance the carbs, you wont need to change any jets.
            I found that the original throttle lever to carb setup used only right hand threaded links, which means that you have to move the lever on it's shaft, and then re-tighten it to set up the balance.
            I bought a new set of left and right handed link rods from Pierce Manifolds in the US, which gave me a finer adjustment.
            Neil.

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            • #7
              Neil,
              Thank you so much. Excellent instructions!
              Bruce

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              • #8
                Bruce,
                Forgot one important thing - never turn the engine backwards .
                Neil.

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